Lexington, Kentucky is situated in the center of the Kentucky Bluegrass region. The area is well known for the beautiful and strong horses that are raised there, thanks in no small part to the minerals that nourish the famous bluegrass. Horses are a source of great pride to the people of Kentucky. Horse lovers from all over the world come to Kentucky to buy, to observe and to take part in the various competitions that are held in the state. As they enjoy Kentucky hospitality, visitors and citizens alike are drawn to the distilleries that produce the famous “Kentucky Bourbon”.
Particularly in the Bluegrass region, the minerals that are found there, including a huge limestone deposit, are part of the “secret” to the popularity of bourbon. Filtered through that limestone and other minerals, the water is clean and clear. The limestone filters iron out of the water, yet allows other important minerals such as calcium to remain. Crops, particularly corn, benefit from these minerals and the rich soil that is produced because of the filtering. Corn, clear water, and good mineral content. That’s where the story of bourbon begins.
In the mid to late 18th century, much of Kentucky was still a territory of Virginia. The 1776 Corn Patch and Cabin Rights Act in Virginia offered 400 acres of land in the Kentucky territory for any settler willing to build a cabin, plant corn, and live there. A great influx of immigrants from countries such as Scotland, Ireland, and even Germany came to the territory and brought their long-practiced skills as whiskey distillers with them. At that time, rye was the primary grain found in whiskey distilling recipes.
However, the bounty and quality of corn the settlers grew made a change in those old recipes, and corn became the central ingredient. The whiskey, now corn based, had a distinctive taste and soon became quite popular. During the Revolutionary War, the once highly popular rum was increasingly shunned due to the expense and involvement of England in its production. Whiskey became the alcoholic drink of choice in the colonies and Kentucky was glad to oblige.
In order to settle debts incurred by the war, the fledgling government in the colonies decided to levy a tax on whiskey. Maryland and Pennsylvania distillers were not pleased with this turn of events and the Whiskey Rebellion began. Kentucky, not yet granted statehood, remained fairly silent as their 500 or so distilleries continued to produce. The rebellion was ended in 1794 when President Washington sent troops to quell it. Wisely, the young federal government chose to levy tariffs on rum instead, leaving whiskey untaxed until a brief period to pay for the War of 1812.
How did Kentucky go from whiskey to bourbon? There are several delightful stories, most probably apocryphal, about the creation of bourbon. One very popular story is about the Rev. Elijah Craig, a Baptist minister, who is said to have inadvertently “invented” bourbon by storing his whiskey in charred oak barrels. Over time this changed the flavor and texture of the whiskey, bringing forth a product quite similar to what became known as bourbon. Storing the alcohol in these charred oak barrels, along with the Kentucky weather swings from hot summers to chilled winters and back again, causes the alcohol to move through the expanding and contracting oak, particularly the charring. The distinctive smoothness, color, and taste are rightly connected to this movement.
Various stories, also perhaps apocryphal, surround the origins of the name, “Bourbon” that came to be attached to this alcohol. Some stories claim that the name originated in Bourbon county, so named for the French royal family in recognition of France’s aid in the Revolutionary War. Others say it came because of shipments to Bourbon Street in New Orleans, because of the enormous popularity of the drink there. It is quite possible that parts of those stories do, in fact, have connections to the name of the alcohol. When barrels were shipped from Bourbon county they were marked as “bourbon”, to claim the county of origin. As often happens, it is likely that the barrel marking became connected to the drink. It is not unusual for dual named products, such as “bourbon (county) whiskey” would eventually see one part drop out and a new designation accepted.
In 1964, the USA Congress declared bourbon to be a “native” spirit, having been created and marketed solely in this country. 95% of all bourbon production is found in Kentucky. There are a few distilleries elsewhere in the nation, however, a Kentuckian will tell you that if it isn’t Kentucky bourbon, it just isn’t bourbon. Laws govern the recipe and production of bourbon. There must be at least 51% corn in the “mash”, a mixture of grains to be distilled. The balance of the mash made be from malted barley and rye or wheat. The mash must be distilled at no more than 160 proof and poured into the charred oak barrels at no more than 125 proof, as well as contain no additives. It must rest in the barrel for no less than 2 years in order to be labeled as “straight bourbon”. If aged less than 4 years, the labeling must disclose the actual length of time. The longer the bourbon is barreled, the more flavorful the alcohol will be. Moving in and out of the charred interior will allow the bourbon to take on a more mellow and smooth vanilla-like flavor, thereby becoming more complex. This also allows it to become more layered and complex, as well as imparting its signature dark brown coloring.
There is a limit to this aging process, as some of the alcohol evaporates as it ages. The evaporated alcohol is known as the “angels’ share”. Today there are enterprising distilleries who have found ways to capture that evaporation and market it as well. Too much time in the barrel will render an unpleasant wood taste and the alcohol becomes undrinkable. While each barrel will have a slightly different taste due to complex distilling factors (wood, where it sat in the aging rooms, how long, as examples); distillers will mix as many as 100 or more barrels together until the desired flavor consistency is achieved.
There are consumers who prefer “single-barrel” bourbons. These barrels are chosen by the master distiller, cut with water to the proper proof, and bottled. Each one will have a slightly different flavor. Labeling a bottle as “small batch” is another way to market bourbon, although no one quite knows what is defined by “small batch”. It is, however, a successful way to market as a more exclusive product!
Every batch of bourbon must be aged in a new charred oak barrel. The emptied barrels may be used for other distilling purposes and many find their way to countries such as Scotland, where they are used for the aging of scotch. Other barrels remain in Kentucky where they are used to age non-bourbon whiskies, or even aging batches of microbrews, particularly stouts. They may also be available for purchase if the idea of a 53-gallon barrel as part of your home décor sounds interesting.
The Kentucky Distillers Association hosts the “Bourbon Trail”, an adventure of touring and tasting at 18 different distilleries in Kentucky that are a part of the KDA. Complete with “passports” that can be redeemed upon completion for souvenirs, this trail is fairly self-guided. Many distilleries welcome visitors, although reservations may be required for larger parties. There are tasting parties with master distillers, hosted at a venue of your choice. Once each month, “The Kentucky Dining Train” turns its focus to all things bourbon as you enjoy fine food and bourbon tasting while traveling for 2 ½ hours between Louisville and Lexington, and return. However, you choose to experience Kentucky and its proud bourbon industry, enjoy the hospitality and drink responsibly! – Ryan Smith